So infamous
for its paranormal activities since centuries, that locals have started calling
it Bhoot Bangla or Bhoot Bhangarh
instead of Bhangarh. Infact many
sites/blogs rate it as the top most haunted place in India or some say that for
Asia. You search in Google – “the most haunted place in India”, and every other
link on first page itself, will start boasting about Bhangarh and its tales.
Today only
ruins exist in Bhangarh but it is said to be a sprawling area once. Built in
later half of 16th Century by Man Singh I for his younger brother
Madho Singh I, it got demolished in quite surprising way for which no written
evidence is available till today (The day I’m writing ;) ) but there are two stories
which are quite famous among locals.
Legend I: As per this famous legend, Bhangarh got cursed by an ascetic named Baba Balak Nath. The city was
said to be established with the permission of him with one condition which said
that any building inside the fort should
not be taller than his place. But fate always plays its role, one descendant, who was unaware of this condition, raised height of the palace, and it shadowed the place of the ascetic. The alleged
prophecy stood fulfilled and fort got devastated in no time. By then it is said
that all those spirits have haunted the area and no one dares to build a
house with roof nearby. Even if they
try, it gets collapse the following night.
Legend II: This second legend is more famous
than first one, which says that Princess Ratnavati of Bhangarh was so beautiful that a
black magician fell in love with her. He used his black magic and replaced a
ittar (scent) bottle which Ratnavati was supposed to use, to make her fall in love
with him. She was being not only beautiful but intelligent too, sensed it and threw
the bewitched scent over a big boulder. The boulder started rolling towards the magician and crushed him. Before the last breath, he cursed that Bhangarh would be
destroyed soon such that no one would ever be able to live here and see morning
sun.
Within a
year, Bhangarh fort was invaded by Mughals and city got sacked. All the people
in the fort were killed in that war. The place is said to be haunted since.
Following above legend,some of the locals also believe that Bhangarh will come alive once Ratnavati,
the cursed princess, will enter into its boundaries again. She has said to be
taken birth in one of the households. Good luck Bhangarhis!!!
I am so fond
of haunted places, that the moment I got to know about Bhangarh, I was sure
that I was going to visit it very soon. Somehow plan got delayed a little, but I got more curious to reach
Bhangarh with every passing day.
Chattri of Baba Balak Nath at the Top |
Then came
the D-Day when I with 3 other friends of mine planned for Jaipur trip. Thanks to Asit
who used to work in night shifts those days so we could only start by early in
the morning which actually triggered the opportunity to see some of the places
en-route Jaipur including mysterious Bhangarh Fort.
It is
located on the border of Sariska Tiger Reserve in Alwar District of Rajasthan,
India. From Delhi, it’s just 300 kms drive away while from Jaipur, it’s around
100 kms which makes it a perfect location for one-day trip anytime when weather
is not too hot. Since it is located in Aravali valley, so going after monsoon
can be a good idea to encounter its beauty with the greenery.
We crossed
Sariska around 2 in the afternoon. Not sure about the reason, but I started to
feel little eerie once we were in the nearby village, Azamgarh. In the village,
most of the houses are having temporary roofs and because of no proper roofs,
balconies are not at all there. I was constantly thinking that walls of the
houses are straight in a strange way but then noticed the roofs and understood
that they can’t have balconies at all with the temporary roofs. It was ultimately
making houses to look little different & creating background for one of the
legends of haunted Bhangarh.
House with temporary roof in nearby village Azamgarh |
ASI has
placed a map of whole fort inside the main gate according to which fort has 5
Gates in total – Lahori Gate, Ajmeri Gate, Hanuman Gate, Phulbari Gate and Delhi
Gate. Hanuman Gate was the one through which we entered inside the fort walls.
But as far as I could understand, it is the only gate through which entry is
allowed inside the fort now.
The very first
thing to notice from the gate is Lord Hanuman Temple. It is quite surprising to
believe if Bhangarh is really haunted if Lord Hanuman is sitting at its entrance.
We were
quite excited to ‘what happens next’ and were walking in enthusiasm. Next was a
long dilapidated pavilion which is called as “Jowhri Bazar”. It is said that in
old times this place used to have market where diamond and gold jewelers used
to sell their ornaments. We encountered some of the peacocks there :) as a symbol of beauty in current era.
Ruins of Jowhri Bazaar |
Then was the
2nd level gate which is covered with a weird shaped Banyan Tree. Main
Palace is still little far from this gate and there is a big open area in between. On the
one side of which is Gopinath Temple, standing on a high platform but
surprisingly without any deity. Contrast to its surroundings, this temple is
quite intact, well preserved. Architecturally it’s a beautiful temple. On the
other side is Shiva Temple, which is having Nandi idol opposite to Shivalinga
like all other Shiva temples but unlike other temples inside the fort which are not having any idols. There is a pool beside it which is getting water from the perennial stream of water, which according to locals, is originating in the snake infested sandal woods around the area (you can consider it as another mystery).
Gopinath Temple |
Banyan Tree outside 2nd Gate |
Royal Palace |
We were so
lost in its beauty or to find something haunted, that we did not realize when
we reached to the top of the fort until we saw a big terrace full of stones and
mesmerizing view of the surroundings along with complete view of the Fort. The
Royal Palace is said to have seven storeys, out of which only four are
remaining now. Whole Township was protected by three successive fortifications
which was quite visible from the terrace. We were enjoying the views but then
suddenly Asit said that he was having an unusual uneasy feel in his head
(something ghostly), and asking us to move out as soon as possible. Without
thinking twice, we started to descend. By the time sun had already set. After
coming down, I asked him to stay little more but he was still not interested, so
we started towards the main gate.
View from the Top of the Royal Palace |
We then came outside the main gate and started the car which stopped after a little distance.
No, it did
not stop automatically but we could see a road side vendor selling the hot
spicy pakodas. We were very hungry so it was time to make our stomach full, before
embarking our journey to Jaipur.
Some General Details :
- From Delhi, its just 300 kms drive away while from Jaipur, its just 100 kms. But there are very few petrol pumps in nearby areas, so plan accordingly.
- Timings : Sunrise to Sunset
- Entry Fee : No Entry Fee
- Visit Duration : Minimum 2-3hrs, if you are interested in photography and architecture.
- Kind of Place : During day time, it's considered as beautiful ruins but in night, enter at your own risk.
- Take sufficient snacks/water with you as there is no shop/stall outside the fort.
- ASI does not allow to enter this place after sunset, so plan your trip such that you enter the fort by 2 PM.
- Stay Options : There is no place to stay nearby as it is infamous for being haunted especially during night time, so plan to leave this place such that you can reach to nearby town in time.
- For one-day trip, plan to combine it with a visit to Sariska Tiger Reserve, Siliserh Lake and Tijara Jain Temple.