Lansdowne – A road less travelled



Lansdowne… when I heard this name the very first time, the very first thought to struck my mind was "This place must be located somewhere outside Indian periphery". The next instant Google told me that this was the place which was very near to me, only 250 kms from Delhi and well connected by road... you can drive smoothly on NH-58 and NH-119 except at some of the places where roads are patchy. After talking to my friends I got to know that I'm not the only one but Lansdowne is actually the kind of place which is not known and not present on every tourist’s wishlist like Mussorie, Nainital, Manali etc(to name some). Being a big fan of offbeat places, I started to plan for it immediately.

Basically Lansdowne is a cantonment town in Pauri Garhwal district of Uttrakhand in India, having an altitude of approx 1706 mtrs, was previously known as Kaludanda. It got its present name from then Viceroy of India, Lord Lansdowne in 1887. Lansdowne is the perfect place for you if you want to be away from daily hustle & bustle of your city life and want to spend a lazy weekend doing nothing. It is the place for those who love nature in its pristine form.

Numbers of tourist attractions are very limited and all are confined very close to each other in Lansdowne. It is the best place to spend your holiday lazily without worrying about the places to visit. I believe in one of the famous saying “Journey is more important than the destination”, you will also believe it once you will visit this regimental town. Lansdowne is all covered with thick oak and blue pine forests with awestruck beauty and surroundings. The moment we crossed Kotdwar, we found ourselves amidst woody hills which were making the above saying true.

Day 1 | 2nd May 2014, Friday

We started from Ghaziabad at 7AM on 2^nd May and took our first halt at a food point after Meerut for having breakfast. Just after getting down from the car, smell of fresh fried bread pakodas entered in my nose and I ordered one immediately with tea. Our next halt was not planned but a massive dam before Bijnor forced us to stop. We got down from the car so that we could get a expansive view of it. We could not stop ourselves from going to the ghat of the Ganga and paid our homage to it. Putting our feet into the Ganga water was soothing and it cooled us internally.

Massive Dam in Bijnor

Till then sun was on its full bloom as it was the first week of May, we were busy in discussion about our past and future trips. Eventually we entered into the crowdy roads of Kotdwar making us realize that our destination is very near by as Lansdowne is just 45 kms from here. On the outskirts of Kotdwar we found the famous temple Sidhbali Dham.

Bridge that connects Sidhbali Dham to the Highway

Steps leading to the temple

Shree Sidhbali Temple is located in the valley covered with Shivalik Hills from three sides on the bank of River Khoh. It is the location of the temple which makes it famous among tourists. They find themselves to be glued there and admiring the panoramic beauty which can be witnessed from the temple so was the case with us. Among locals it is famous that if a person prays with true devotion all his wishes get fulfilled here. One-third part of this temple stood erect during the landslide before some years which caused the major destruction. It is believed that Lord Hanuman himself supported the temple on his shoulders at that time. This temple is painted with deep orange which is the color of Lord Hanuman. This temple remains closed from 2PM-3PM on weekdays and from 2PM-4PM on sunday. Anyway after half an hour halt we proceeded for the Lansdowne.

Sidhbali Dham

This was the route for which we were waiting all through the way. Lansdowne is 1500 mtrs higher than Kotdwar so landscape changes suddenly after Sidhbali. We were going up on the hills which were very steep and covered with pine and oak trees. Roads were serpentine and car was moving in zig-zag way like in a Video Game. Roads were exceptionally good, another indication of a cantonment town. We were enjoying the woody hills, trees were so long that road has been fully covered with their shadow. Those roads were more cherishing than the destination itself. We were wishing that those kind of roads should never end. This hill station is unique in its own way as I was feeling that this was the first hill station of my life although I have visited so many. Ultimately we stopped in the middle of the forest so that we can fully enjoy the views. We almost got mad with the natural beauty.

On the way to Lansdowne

Army mess was the first to welcome, reminding us again without uttering a single word that we are going to enter in a cantonment area. It is so clean all around that nothing else can’t be compared. We proceeded further for the search of a Hotel where we could dump our luggage and search ended at Mayur Hotel. Hotel staff was quite co-operative and room was also good. After dumping the luggage and late lunch... we started to stroll on the roads. Roads were dotted with small houses and some are still standing from British era. We found a lamp post on the way to Bhulla Taal which was looking like from the time of Britishers. We were clicking pictures of flowers, lamp posts, roads, logs on the side of roads and everything. Then a group of ladies caught us, we clicked pictures with them and they also enjoyed the photo session with us. We made that way to Bhulla Taal so long that that 1 km we covered in more than 1 hour.

Bhulla Taal is the artificial lake maintained by the Garhwal Regiment. It has been well maintained and different variety of flowering plants is grown around it. A small over bridge is there to cross the taal. Boating facility is provided from 8AM-6PM. A canteen is there beside this taal and food is yummy there. We tried pakoda and those were so awesome that we finished those in blink of the eye.

Overbridge at Bhulla Tal

It was dark as watch was already showing 8PM; we were on the way back for the hotel. No word can describe the feeling of walking on the silent roads of a quaint hill station in the dark. We were so lost that no body of us was speaking a single word. It was like we were completely soaked in the surroundings. We didn’t even realize when we reached to the hotel. After reaching, we realized that it had been too late for this small hamlet and we were not going to get our food. 9PM is the last time to get your food because this is the time when this town sleeps. We arranged for some snacks as we are not going to sleep early. From locals we got to know that Le-Osh is the hotel that provides food to our kind of late eaters so we packed dinner from there.

We were enjoying in our hotel room and it started raining. It was like God heard our wish, we opened the doors of windows and trying to see in the dark.. but instead that our eyes could see something, our soul felt it. We wanted to be out in the rain but it was too late so enjoyed it from windows only. A hill station gets renewed after rain.. so was the look of Lansdowne the next morning. It suddenly changed the environment and we were feeling so cold that we got in our quilts. Anyway 3AM was the time when we went to sleep with the alarm in phone for 6AM set.

Lansdowne after Rain

 Day 2 | 3rd May 2014, Saturday

Obviously after such a late night sleep we reached late at Tip-n-Top(or Tiffin Top) to view sunrise. Sun had already waked up without waiting for any one and was getting ready for its journey of the day till we reached there. Still that point was filled with some divine tranquility looking like a gateway to heaven. Through that point we could see uncountable range of hills, road to Lansdowne, some other nearby hamlets, stepped hills and unbeatable views. It is the highest point in Lansdowne so that’s why we were able to completely enjoy the Mother Nature’s true beauty. Eventually we felt the need for morning tea and GMVN(Garhwal Mangal Vikas Nigam) guest house behind Tip-n-Top was providing it J. It is having two Tree Houses for enjoying the uninterrupted views of Tiffin Top, also they have built wooden houses which were looking lovely and magnetized us to take some picture with them. To stay there you should book in advance.

Tip-n-Top

Road as seen from Tip-n-Top

Tree Houses of GMVN

After taking bath we started for the Darwan Singh Museum which was just a hop away. Outside the museum gate, Jawans of Garhwal Regiment were doing their daily marching. They all were in same uniform and short hair… we continued to look at them until they passed us. Opposite to the museum, Garhwal Memorial and Parade Ground are there but entry is allowed only for the museum. We paid entry fee as Rs 50 per person and left our cameras outside as they were not allowed. Museum was giving information about all the areas in Uttarakhand, varieties of armors of Regiment and captured armors during the wars, all the information about Garhwal Regiment, their contribution in World Wars, Kargil War, Italian, Russian, American Guns and pistols etc. Outside museum, different varieties of plants were grown. Walls were so clean even outside museum, giving another indication that we were in the cantonment area.

Timings of Museum

Darwan Singh Sangrahalaya

Our next point of excursion was Tarakeshwar Mahadev Temple which is around 600 years old and location of this temple is so serene that even the non–religious person should visit it. We started on the narrow road which was full of scenery and I could not stop clicking continuous shots by my camera. Hills were naturally filed so that stony structure was peeking out on the road. Road is that narrow that one need to drive with very patience and skillfully. It is around 40km from Lansdowne and we took more than an hour to reach over there. In the parking, already 7-8 cars were parked although we were not able to see much crowd while on the way.

Incredible view of valley

We started to descend following the marks and soon a very small shrine welcomed us. We found ourselves walking in the canopy of Deodar trees which were so dense that they were not allowing sunlight to touch the ground even though it was a bright sunny day. Surroundings were so serene and quaint over there that we lost in its charm. It is a temple where presence of God can actually be felt in the form of serenity and nature.

Sun is trying hard, but Deodars are the winner here

I have never felt this kind of feeling while going to any shrine that was filling inside me with divinity. We were admiring the place which was so cool even though it was hot outside. Within some time we were standing at the gate of temple. It is an abode of Shiva and some warnings were mentioned at the gate of the temple especially mentioning that as per his name, this form of Shiva does not like any kind of misbehavior in any form.

Temple amidst Dense Forest

Along with the history, location of this shrine makes it special. It is suggested to the people who come to Lansdowne to visit this temple irrespective of their religious views just because of location. I am in totally love with it. There were hills all around the temple covered with the Deodar trees and in the centre this shrine stands. On the way back we followed a different route which was not actually a path but we started to trek over it in the hope that we would reach to the parking. Leaves had fallen from the trees and we were walking over the bed of leaves making a kind of sound that is usual in forests but because of dried leaves that place had become too slippery. At one point my friend almost gave up but we boosted her energy level & she continued. Within some time we could see the road. We jumped over it and tried to find the direction where our car was parked. We were very happy with this little trek. On the way back to Lansdowne, we bought some cucumbers, after having a bite we could feel that this is what fresh means, a different taste and yummier than ever.

Second half of the day we started with St John’s Church which is standing there since British era, architecture of the church gives clear indication of it. It was intermittently used as Godown, school, stable and so on. Since 28^th April 1983 daily prayers are being offered in the church. Church was peaceful and filled with divine power. We stayed there for some time and could feel that Jesus is pouring his blessings on us.

Notice greenery around St John's Church

Next was St Mary’s church which is standing just beside the road to Tip-n-Top. It is somewhat bigger than St John’s but aura is no different here. We discovered a corner of it which was having glass in windows and those glasses were of different color.. through which different color of light was coming inside church producing special effects. One vessel full of water was there in which people were putting coins and praying Mother Mary to fulfil their wishes. A view point opposite to this church is very famous and it gives awestruck views of hills of Garhwal region.

St Mary's Church standing on the side of the road like an Army Personnel

It was around 6PM… we decided to head towards sunset point which is just behind the Tip-n-Top… beside the stairs which lead to Santoshi Mata temple. Sun after its full day journey in the glorious sky was coming down slowly to get ready for the next day. We were enjoying the pristine views of the nature over there. The views which are unique in its own way filled with some kind of serenity. It is not a well designed well built sunset point like some of the places it is just the highest point of Lansdowne. Whole area is surrounded with pine trees and they are so much in number that it was looking like that sun is going to set just behind those trees. Sky was filled with a variety of colors… looking like a canvass that has been drawn by the almighty. I have somewhere heard that God exists in these kind of places close to nature.. that time I could feel “Yes, this is the place where God must be around”.

Sky painted with hues of red

Nearby no other point was there so we decided to go for Bhulla Lake again. We were fascinated with two things over there. One was the peace spread in the environment.. spend some good time just by sitting to the side of the lake. Second was the food/snacks in cafeteria where taste was really awesome. After sitting by the side of the lake for sometime we headed towards café and had supper. We came back early as compared to the last day and ordered momos which is supposed to be very tasty in Lansdowne. Luckily last plate was remaining and we could get those from Zayka Hotel. I didn’t find anything extraordinary but finished them. As today we missed the sunrise so we slept with the resolution that next morning we will definitely go for it.

Stands in the heart of Lansdowne

Day 3 | 4th May 2014, Sunday

No, we did not wake up on time and it was late than even the previous day. Sun rays were peeking from the window which helped us in opening our eyes. We hurried up and got ready thinking of watching some points on the way like Bhim Pakora.. for some reasons we skipped all those, took small break at Shatabdi Dwar and a place where natural water was coming from hills, we drank that, it was very sweet and cold. Finally we got down at Durga Devi Temple that we skipped while heading to Lansdowne. Location of this temple is again awe-inspiring. It is on the side of the main road and surrounded by big hills of Garhwal region and river Khoh flows in the back beneath the temple. There were stairs to go down till the bank of river but the gate was closed. We spent a good time over there... and now without taking any break we started for the home except for the lunch.

Journey was more beautiful than destination :)