Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Kodachadri Trek, Hidlumane Waterfalls & Nagara Fort


 
What I feel after coming to Bangalore, the simplest way to rejuvenate being here is – just select a nearby hill and start conquering the same by trekking on it. One of my friend always say that as much high she reaches on any hill, her stress level reduces to that proportion, on the top of the hill she feels so relaxed that she forgets about all the work or daily life problems or whatever is going on in the life… the heart and mind is filled with only one feel of being on the top. After coming back she starts afresh which increases her efficiency and productivity irrespective of what she does. This thing doesn’t happen not only with her but most of us feel like the same. Same was the case with Kodachadri which was not easy as compared to some of my earlier treks. It kept on teasing and I kept on guessing the next visible hill is the peak.
 
It had been so long I was not out for any trek, then suddenly one day I came to know about the Kodachadri trek organized by TAM (Treks and More), instantaneously I decided to join them as this time I didn’t need to worry about the plan, the group or anything. They were the organizers and I simply need to follow so this time I didn’t even trouble Google much to find information for me. Infact it was a wonderful start for 2014.

We jumping off the tree...
A part of Western Ghats, Kodachadri is a mountain peak which lies in Shimoga district of Karnataka having an altitude of 4400 ft. We started at 10:30PM from Bangalore and reached at the base of the hill the early morning at 5:00AM with 2 small breaks. I settled my luggage in the room of the Homestay and started to get ready for the trek. At 7 AM we all were having our breakfast provided by the owner (Mr. Bhat) of the Homestay which included idli and vada with sambhar which was very tasty. After that we discussed the plan for the day, a guide was there to accompany us as base is covered with dense forest and it is not easy to find the correct route if you are not on the jeep trail. There are three most famous routes for the trek and we selected the most scenic one with utmost difficulty level.
 
At 8AM we started for the trek, from Homestay jeep route was clearly visible and after around 20 mins walk we took right which was the start of the dense jungle. We were going among the high grown plants and crossed a stream of water... though it was not a big one but it was fun to cross it. We were clicking a number of pictures and greenery around was reminding me about the Mullayangiri trek. The trek level was very easy as we were simply walking without any feeling of getting tired. At a point some trees were fallen, blocking the route but we just climbed over them and jumped to the other side. The plants or better forest was making us feel fresh and being in the lap of nature we were extremely happy. In this part the trees were full green and have formed such a dense canopy that we were not even able to see a single ray of sunlight crossing through it.
 
Trekking among dense forest
Around 9:45AM, after crossing the dense forest we reached in the grassland which was surrounded by the hills all around. Nearby was a small cottage which we need to cross to further continue the trek. The view there was spectacular, till then sun had also started rising. After a short break we started again and this time we found some more human habitation and also the wide fields for supporting their livelihood. Crossing which we were going on a muddy pavement beside which water was flowing down and a way has been formed to walk on the side of it. That water was indicating that we were nearby some falls.
 
Gradually we reached to a point where water was coming down on a bed of rocks which had made the rock exceptionally slippery. It was very tough to cross that part as there were high chances of getting slipped down. I can still feel that thrill that I felt at that point of time while crossing it as I almost slipped once but anyhow gripped my feet against the rock. The path here turned very rocky and big boulders were spread all around making the path very steep. After around 10 mins we met to a small fall where water was flowing down the big rock initially we thought it as Hidlumane. We took a number of good snaps there… nobody was ready to miss a single click as background was too awesome. The path ahead was not easy, perhaps the most difficult part of the entire trek... very steep, very slippery and very narrow to walk on.
 
In front of our eyes was the most exciting part of the trek… Hidlumane Falls; standing there in seclusion. It was worth for the difficult trek we already did and were going to do after it. It is hidden among the hills and trees which are standing there like the soldiers protect their Kingdom and to capture a view of it you have to be perseverant. Although water was not very much at that time because it was the month of January but still the feel of it was just wonderful. A number of trees were fallen down just before the falls making the view spectacular. Good amount of water is collected in the natural pool to take a perfect bath. When I went ahead to click pictures with this mighty fall, it made me completely wet with its droplets. Then it was my chance to get drenched fully feeling its complete charm. The path after the fall was the most difficult one as steep rocks were ahead of us. It was very dangerous as we need to go on very big boulders making the ascent tough.

Hidlumane Fall
After a tiring trek for 15mins, it was time to take another short break and to wait for the ones who were still enjoying at the Waterfall. We were not able to stop ourselves and kept on discussing about the route which we just trekked and felt much relieved after that part of the trek. We had come out of the thick forest and now was the turn of the grasslands. In this part of the trek grasslands were dry so turned brown instead of green; I was busy in imagining how the view would be during monsoons. Here steepness of the mountain was about 60 degrees. We were among the bed of the hill which was making us move up and down with the sight of jeep route opposite to it. It was again time to take a break after a tiresome trek for more than 1 hr. We all were resting under a tree, 2 villagers approached us, they were selling buttermilk and kokum juice (a fruit which is very refreshing). Both of the drinks were so refreshing that suddenly we felt that we had got our energy back.

Trekking continued...
Jeeps were coming from both sides and those drivers being expert in these kind of hills, were driving skillfully leaving us to take a test on our skills :P. So we kept on moving to the side whenever any jeep was there. Jeep trail not being that adventurous as dense forest and falls, it was still providing the majestic view of the forests around. Inspection Bungalow was visible in the midst of dense forest at considerable distance. We again stopped after tour guide Kishan asked us to stop as we were supposed to get lunch here provided by the Homestay owner. It was wonderful as we were getting lunch delivered in the midst of the jungle and that too on the halfway to the hill. Anyways our photo session started again, were in no mood of skipping any moment. We were hungry and our wait got fruit after 25mins and we could see big vessels having rice, sambhar, dal and curd. It was just awesome.
 
This time we decided to move somewhat fast and reached to a temple in some time and beside that temple was a pond. No idea what was the name of the temple but this is the last point where jeep comes. After this point everybody needs to walk upto the top. This was again the challenging part of the trek. It was steep as well as every hill was putting us in hallucination that the next visible peak is the destination. When we were reaching to the Top of that, we could see another one. We also played this game enthusiastically and kept on guessing that how many peaks were still there. Then we saw the peak by identifying the temple of Adi Shankara J
 
Known as Sarvajana Peetha, this point is the highest point of Kodachadri. It is said that at this point Adi Shankara meditated. Various stories are famous among locals and it is also famous as a pilgrim point. We could see almost all the locals including females and children coming barefooted from the point jeep trail ends. It was full of gravel and other small stones making the route worst but I think this is the devotion of those pilgrims which makes this worst route walkable to them.
 
On the top of Kodachadri is... Saravajana Peetha
We took shelter beside the temple and had watermelon, cucumber to re-energize ourselves. Yes we could get these things at such a high point and hats off to the guy who was present there and helping the trekkers and other pilgrims. The panoramic view from the top of the hill was breathtaking. While enjoying the views, I was thinking that the feeling of standing here is worth of all the efforts we put for reaching this peak. The feeling which can only be felt not described. Reaching to the peak is daring and adventurous task which involves a trek for approx 10-12 kms.
 
We wanted to stop there for the sunset, as Kodachadri is famous for its sun set and sun rise both, but our guide informed us that it is not safe to trek to the base in night. If you are planning to stay on top in night, then only you must stop here. So we started to descend after a break of 1.30 hrs. This time we simply followed the jeep trail as sun was about to set and trekking on those steep hills in night is not advisable until you are an expert trekker.
 
While returning, we (I and one of my friend) also decided to explore the cave which is just before the peak on the right. Famous as Ganesha Guha, it has an idol of Lord Ganesha, and on the other side you can see the beautiful views. But I had heard that there is one more cave here and surprisingly we were able to find that hidden cave about which not many people know. We entered in this cave, it was completely dark and Bats had made their home in it, so decided to go back. But an adventurous feel started to fill my nerves and I could feel my adrenaline level went up and after coming out it was tough to believe what I just saw.
 
Me at Ganesha Guha
We stopped near to the point where we met to the jeep trail while coming up. A small peak was there; from that peak too you can enjoy a marvelous sun set as we did. We got over that, settled ourselves and started waiting for the sun to set. Sun was slowly moving into the sky and going behind the hills spreading the hues of many colors. This was the perfect scene to click pictures and we did not miss anyJ. After sunset we had a look at the surroundings and then we realized that it is very very beautiful. We could see a reservoir (probably it was Chakra Reservoir) from that point it was looking awesome. Then was the time to start downwards on the jeep trail. We were talking about different experiences of different people while walking down as till then we all had become friends with each other. It was overwhelming to walk down under the sky full of stars but with completely dark surroundings, for me it was a unique experience in its own way. The jeeps which were coming down were source of light for an instant and it was dark again when they passed but our talks were keeping the surroundings alive.
 
Notice the red and blue hues in the sky
 Ultimately at 8PM we reached to the homestay, making my first trek for 12 hours successful. We were so tired and so dirty that I was not even able to recognize my own feet. We had hot bath all in local style; water was getting hot in one vessel by burning wood below it, which helped in reducing the tiredness. It was time to have dinner but there was plan for Campfire behind the homestay. We all reached there one by one and within no time we all were enjoying the campfire over Antakshari. Till then we had forgot the fatigue which was not letting us move… just one hour back :P. After a lot of enjoyment, we had dinner and slept for the day. 
 
Day - 2 | 26th January 2014, Sunday
 
Next day morning we woke up early to catch the sun rise, as both the sun rise and sun set are spectacular in the hills. I joined the other members who had planned for it and got the information about the nearest sunrise point. We were walking in the direction told by the local in the dark having no clue about the point. But with some trouble we were able to find it and started waiting for the sun. There a very funny thing happened, as we were not sure that this is the correct point and time and it was already 6:30AM, we thought that sun had already risen and it can’t be viewed from this point as one small hill was obstructing the view. So after some time we started back and suddenly one guy saw it rising and he shouted “See, Sun is rising.” We all turned back and lost in the awestruck view, sun had started to spread its light and sky was changing color. Anyway, it was 6:45AM and we were laughing on ourselves that how unsure we were!!
 
25kms away on the way to Bangalore, 18th century fort is located named Nagara Fort. After breakfast we left the Homestay in which we enjoyed a lot the last night. Within half an hour we were standing in front of the main gate of the fort. The fort was ruined yet catching attention of the tourists. It forced us to think that how people would have constructed it in that era when no machines as today’s world were present. Outer walls are standing firm but inner part is kind of huge grassland. We entered into the fort through a steep ramp. There were holes in the walls and also small balconies were present helping us to guess the structure of fort which would be present some hundred years ago. The highest point of this fort is the Observatory Tower which provides a spectacular view of whole Fort and surroundings. We also came through some more ruined structure in the other part of the fort, but each part was still showcasing the royalty from that era. We spent around 50-60 mins inside the fort.
 
Observatory Tower inside Nagara Fort
After getting into the bus, a round of different games started and almost all were participating enthusiastically. We didn’t even realize when we reached Shimoga and took a halt there for lunch. After lunch, resumed Dumb Charades until the next stop which was taken for tea. Time was flying and we were running for our sweet home. J