Sunday, 13 July 2014

Hogenakkal Falls – God's Ultimate Creation


Monsoon was about to leave from Bangalore in the month of October in year 2013. It was playing hide and seek… coming back again when we thought it was gone. Actually I was not so concerned about it until Google introduced me to this mighty fall called Hogenakkal through its mesmerizing pictures. So I desperately started waiting for it to be over so that I could go to Hogenakkal because a waterfall looks awestruck just after the monsoon.

Hogenakkal Waterfall got its name from two Kannada words, ‘Hoge’ means smoke and ‘Kal’ means rocks hence the term “Smoky Rocks”. Rocks appear to be smoky here because of the Cauvery river which falls vigorously into the gorge which is some 20m deep. As per locals, it looks like “Mini Niagra”.  It is around 180kms from Bangalore ahead of Krishnagiri.

Hogenakkal Fall is not usual kind of waterfall where we see one or two streams coming down but it is a series of waterfalls that is spread over an area of 1km or so. Yeah, this is true that this waterfall is spread in such a vast area and you can visit all, only through a coracle ride. It is actually formed by the Cauvery River which after coming to this area starts to fall down into the gorge at various points thus forming a series. There is no way of enjoying the actual part of the fall other than the coracle (as far as I know). Stroll at the area just after the parking where people would be taking bath, you will find out so many streams that your curiosity will keep on increasing to see more.

Now let me describe the whole day in my own style. There was no pre-plan for it but suddenly one Saturday night we decided to leave for it the next morning. The early morning, my friend called me in utter confusion and asked me to change the place..  considering the scorching heat of Tamilnadu, also he had heard that it had been too dirty for a nice waterfall to enjoy. Anyhow I managed to convince him and we left our rooms at 5:30AM and within 15 mins all of us were there in the car. In no time we crossed the Electronics City area in the outskirts of Bangalore and were swifting smoothly for Attibele. After clearing inter state tax, we took U-turn and then stopped for the much awaited tea. You will be thinking that after paying tax why we took U-turn, actually we were first going to Pearl ValleyJ.

A garden near Parking of Pearl Valley
Pearl Valley is famous with the name Muthyalamaduvu among locals. It is known with the name Pearl Valley because the drops of water from waterfall after striking to the rocks (present here) give the illusion of Pearl. We followed Attibele-Anekal Road from there, after Anekal, road was very narrow and ride was bumpy. We were moving ahead to see the Pearls. We were the only group to reach there and my friends started to got crazy again as we were not able to see anything exciting. At first site we saw a room there, later we got to know that it was the tourist office which was closed. We saw a local guy and tried to ask him the direction but it was difficult to communicate as he didn’t know English and we didn’t Tamil. Anyhow with sign language, we got our way and started to descend on stairs. As we were descending further, beauty was ascending in proportion. The area was completely soaked with divine peace, might be because of presence of no other human soul. On the way we encountered many monkeys but kept on moving slowly without disturbing them. Eventually we reached to the point where water had been collected with no sign of fall.

This was the utmost point of disappointment, monsoon was not completely over but there was no water fall, no pearls it is famous for. From water marks we could guess that it was the place from where water used to flow. Then we saw the rocks and realized that these must be those ones which help the normal water to get the look of pearls. Those rocks are not the usual ones, just check in picture. We were standing there; although there was no sign of any waterfall but still the beauty present there was trying to engulf us, not allowing us to come out of the thoughts of it. The feeling was so strong that I could stand there the whole day gazing the panoramic scene. In that small natural pond some water was collected and with the rocky stones forming a way, we could feel that this was the normal passage of water, tried to follow that for some distance but we returned back. Although we were unable to see the Pearls but still something hidden was there which was holding us and not letting us to move from there.

Rocks which create Pearls 
We came up and started towards the Hogenakkal Falls. There are two routes for the fall but we followed the shorter one as it is full of mind blowing scenery and free of traffic. Then we took a halt at Denkanikottai for breakfast and most probably lunch too… as there is nothing good to eat at Hogenakkal for vegetarians. We had nice dosa, idli which is traditional breakfast of Southern States. Till then mercury had risen to a nice level and we were full of sweat. After Anchetty we entered in the dense forest area, wind was cool then and we were enjoying different varieties of tree on both sides of road. No doubt this scene was exceptionally eye-catching; our purpose of taking the shorter route was fulfilled. Let me tell you after few kms.. road condition started to get so worst, we wished to reach Hogenakkal as soon as possible. From Bilgundala we were able to catch a scene of Cauvery River which was flowing with us on the right. Humidity was compelling us to jump into river but after a halt of 15-20mins we proceeded towards the main destination.

A beautiful turn among the dense forest
Few kilometers of drive and we were in the parking of Hogenakkal. We got down, the first word was HELL as sun was on top of our head and we were drenched in our own sweat. After 10 mins of walk we could see direction arrows for Fish Market and Main Falls. We proceeded in the direction of the main fall and started to see a number of streams one by one. So many streams in such an area were making us cooler and more cooler. We decided to have Coracle ride first as it is the only way to see all the falls spread in the area of around 1 km. For Coracle ride they take max 6 people in one coracle and we were charged Rs 250 per person. Here you can give your bargaining skills a nice try.

Coracle is a kind of circular boat made by local people. It is made of bamboo and on the bottom is canvas and tar which helps it to float on water easily. This trip on the coracle was for 2 hours. This was our turn to think that what we are going to do in 2 hours in the Coracle. With all these thoughts revolving in our mind, we started and after 15 mins the coracle guy asked us to get down on one bank and commanded us in Tamil. We were wondering what we will do now & were following that guy who has by now taken Coracle on his head and was moving ahead of us with a nice speed. Then after a walk of 10 mins on rocky stones.. among the scenic view of water of Cauvery we reached to the stairs to descend leading us to the downstream of gorge. He threw the coracle in the gorge and asked us to sit in it. This was the simple starting of our wonderful journey in the fall.

Different streams of Cauvery we encountered while walking
Gorge and our coracle guy in the center

We were enjoying in the coracle in the gorge, we reached at a place where three streams were coming down into the gorge from 3 different directions, making that scene breathtaking. Here speed of water (because it was hitting the rocks and coming back) was that much that our coracle was moving at an angle of 360 degree by itself just because of force of water. The coracle guy took us very near to the stream by using his skills and we could feel water droplets on our face. Then the next scene was amazing as we were moving on the highway made of water instead of concrete. Water has made its way through the rocks and they were guarding the water from both sides. On the way in another coracle, a vendor was selling snacks on his coracle reminding me of Dal Lake in Kashmir where you can do shopping while enjoying the Shikara ride. Again the guy asked us to get down and walk. In the first look, it looked like a kind of feast for ones who love Fish. They were preparing Fish dishes in a variety of ways and people were buying them excitedly.

Two falls out of three
Highway made of water instead of concrete
He showed us the way to a bridge by pointing his finger as till now he understood that we din’t know Tamil. After crossing the bridge we could see the sight for which I was waiting so long for so many days.. infact few months. It was the view point to see the main falls. From it, we could see a distant view of Cauvery flowing in a calm pace and then suddenly falling from a height on rocks into the gorge from so many points forming a series of waterfalls and with such a thundering speed producing a illusion of smoking rocks. This is the scene that anyone can gaze for hours without even blinking the eye. We were also lost in this hypnotic scene and completely forgot about the sun which was shining brightly on top of us.
Felt water droplets here

We jumped off from the view point to catch the view from the nearest point possible and started to walk on the small rocky stones which were there all through our way. After reaching the nearest point possible we simply crashed over on the stones; gazing at the falls and appreciating the nature. With us sun also got in relaxing mood as it went behind the clouds in the sky. We were amazed at the God’s creation who has created such a variety of things and it can be considered amongst the top creation of him. We were trying to guess about its vastness, its depth, its roaring speed and so many things like this. We were able to see that smoke (smoke of water) that people talk about; looking like it was coming out of rocks. We were just sitting there on the stones and discussion about the fall was going on and on without any break until I noticed the coracle guy who was calling us back.


We headed further in the boat, after few meters, water was shallow and we jumped off into the water. Water was cool; effectively beating the sun’s effort of making it hot. The coracle guy was again waiting for us and when he realized that we were in no mood of coming back he started to ask us continuously to come back in coracle. Half-heartedly we came out and were heading in the direction of the point where this ride was supposed to end. In the Cauvery, there were so many plants some of which were floating with us and at some places water was moving round and round forming a little hurricane in water. Those 2 hours passed in a moment and ride was going to end.

We were wet when the ride ended; wanted to jump again in the water so searched for the place where speed of water was somewhat slow so that we could stand in the water instead of flowing in it ;). At one place, we need to cross a stream to go on other side; when we kept our legs in it, fishes in the water started to bite on our legs and we started to jump at our places. Ultimately we found a nice place to jump into, enjoyed the bath for more than an hour. Speed of stream was really fast because monsoon was just over. This water is said to have curative powers because this water passes through some area which is having medicinal herbs. I can’t comment anything about its curative strengths but for sure it was rejuvenating as hell. Its coolness was making us crazy but time was also passing by so we had to come out. We came out had hot tea and left Hogenakkal around 5 PM.


Main Fall
While returning back we followed the other route i.e. longer route. Even on this route, we encountered some nice scenery as sun was going to rest after a long day of work. As usual we jumped down; stopped for some time and enjoyed the sun set over a vast green area forming a valley. At one point sun rays were falling on the ground with a different angle forming a canopy of rays on a particular area so that a special lightning effect had been produced just like a dancer is highlighted on the stage. Then Bangalore was our final destinationJ.

Sun ray's special effect
General Information with Day Plan:
Date of Visiting : 6-Oct-2013 Sunday
Distance from Bangalore : approx 150 Km
Entry Fee : No entry fee.
Mode of travelling : By Car
Plan for the day : Bangalore->Pearl Valley->Anchetty->Hogenakkal Falls->Rayakottai->Bangalore.
Days required : Keep one full day to enjoy it fully.
Kind of place : Perfect place to get rid of summer heat as water remains here throughout the year. 

Some important points:
Ø      If you are interested in having massage, this is one of the best place as we could see everywhere people covered with oil and a massager nearby.

Ø      Also it’s the best place for fish lovers. If you are a vegetarian, please get your food packed for the day.

Ø      For changing wet clothes, changing rooms are there but not clean. 

Ø      This place has turned somewhat dirty but not that much that you can’t enjoy being there. So go and admire the Nature’s beauty.