Day 1 | Coorg in Monsoon, A Hidden Treasure

Madikeri (Coorg) is very famous with the name, Scotland of India and also sometimes referred as Kashmir of Karnataka. The instant I heard these two metaphors, a thought constantly occupied my mind that what special will be there in Coorg so that it is called by these names. The moment I entered into the boundary of Madikeri... not exactly entered, even before that... I started to get my answers. Coorg is indubitably having such a scenic beauty that you will feel like lost into it; woody hills, green valleys, coffee plants, amazing falls, being into cloud feeling etc... will take you in the world where you will forget yourself, your routine and stressed life, each and every thing that you are worried about. In two days of our trip not only me but we all were like lost and totally soaked in the beauty of Coorg. We even forgot that we stay in Bangalore or we had to go back there… L

Basic Info

Coorg is basically a small district in Southern Karnataka. It consists of three taluks or Administrative units: Madikeri, Virajpet and Somwarpet (This thing I came to know while visiting Madikeri else I was thinking Madikeri is just other name of CoorgJ). Amongst these Madikeri is said to be most beautiful and in almost same confusion people call Madikeri as Coorg. River Cauvery, largest here will keep on following you wherever you will go in Coorg. Also you can see coffee plantation everywhere around you when you are in Coorg. These small trees look very cute and sometimes you can smell coffee while running on the road because both sides of the roads are covered with coffee plantations.

Some Pre-journey Facts…

This is a different story altogether. In India one thing that is widely available for free is advice. We were also suggested to not to visit Coorg during monsoon.  Everyone was telling me that this is not the right time to go there. Infact they were telling that we should not even think of going there at that time as it is having frequent landslides and all roads would be blocked so we would not be able to roam a lot in and around Coorg. Initially we got influenced and tried to decide for some other place but at last we could not run away from our temptation and decided to leave for Madikeri but with a lot of risk in our mind.

Starting of Journey infact fun

We left our rooms in Bangalore at around 1:20AM in night as we had booked a car for the trip which was already waiting… picked other friends and by 1:40AM all of us were there in the car.. ready to start our journey for the Heaven on Earth. Within no time car was running with full speed as city had almost slept leaving us with no traffic on the roads. After sometime we were on Mysore Road... as usual singing, gossiping and enjoying in ourselves. Around 3:30AM we took first halt for tea and also I am a big fan of it J... for me journey without tea/coffee is incomplete. It took somewhat long time for that man to give us tea and when we tasted it we got to know that that man in shop by mistake prepared coffee instead of tea... seemed that even he knew that we were over excited to visit one of the largest coffee producers of India.

 

Road to Mandalpatti

After having that lovely coffee we started again and this time some of my friends started dozing as it was already very late. Rest of us still kept their eyes on road including me. After Hunsur we took right on Mysore Madikeri Road and we had to be on this road only so after Periyapatna we again took right. After Teak Forest, at Doddahonnurkaval we took left towards Bylakuppe. It was 5:30AM, and dawn had already started to spread its hands. We were finding ourselves at a place having huge grasslands until to the point where our eyes could see. I was wondering that even heaven wouldn’t be better than this or is this place itself known as Heaven. No morning can be better than that morning when you just find yourself in the middle of a road amidst the hill of Western Ghats and farms in the base full of green color.

Day 1 | 29^th June 2013, Saturday

First in the itinerary was Bylakuppe/Golden Temple. We were running towards it and got into the Bylakuppe Area around 6:00AM… and started to search for guest house although was not 100% sure whether we would find any. Our driver was also insisting us that there is no concept of guest rooms there… but we got a little restaurant before Sakya Monastery… there we asked to the caretaker and he said that rooms were available in Sakya Guesthouse but it will be open by 8 0’clock. We all requested to that person and he got ready to open rooms at 6:30AM. The room charge was INR 400 per day only. We were extremely happy as we wanted a room just to get ready for the day ahead. When I came out of the room I realized that while searching for the rooms I did not notice the scenery, the natural beauty which was spread in the whole area there.

Bylakuppe/ Golden Temple

While wandering in the area I got to know something about it. Till then I was thinking that Bylakuppe & Golden Temple are the two names of one thing but the fact is totally different. Bylakuppe is not the other name of Golden Temple but it is actually a Tibetan Refugee Camp that was first camp established in India among other 25 camps in different parts of the country. Here around 5000 Tibetans (yes, it is kind of small town) stay, apparently making it second largest Tibetan settlement in India. They have grown crops here, small but good restaurants are there inside Bylakuppe, many monasteries are here among those this Golden temple is the biggest one, and some shopping centers are also here.

     Some of my friends were still getting ready so we decided to visit the nearby Chalukya monastery... this is the smallest of all the monasteries here. It was not open till then but still we could not hold ourselves stepping into its premises soaked in serenity. We explored every nook and corner of it.. any area which was open to us. I was feeling nostalgic and lost into the memory of Ladakh trip. When came back.. most of my friends were ready and at 8:15PM we got in our car started towards Golden Temple that is in Bylakuppe itself some 3kms away from Sakya Guesthouse.

Chalukya Monastery

      Golden Temple/Namdroling Monastery

Timings: 07:00-20:00 (All Days)                                                                                       No Entry Fee

Within no time, we reached Golden temple and when we got into it.. first we saw a huge campus having multistoried building on two sides with monks moving here and there. After crossing it we could see the Grand Golden Temple or Namdroling Monastery, in the premises of which a huge group of monks was assembled for their daily prayers wearing their maroon & yellow color robes. They were sitting in rows in a much disciplined manner and chanting their prayers which were making the environment really peaceful and religious. We got into the Golden Temple and could easily understand why it is named as such. The amount of gold inside the temple is quite impressive and no body can be left untouched by the beauty of 60ft tall (from the base) central Buddha statue, and other two statues of Guru Padmasambhava and Buddha Amitayus both 58ft in height. Gold in not only inside the temple but it is also present in the form of paintings above the monastery. Inside the temple, silence was prevailed everywhere and anybody can feel the divinity spread in the environment. The walls of the temple are covered with splendid paintings of demons and gods from Tibetan Buddhist mythology. Some other temples are also present in the same premises having smaller statues of Buddha. We enjoyed a lot as crowd was not there perhaps because of monsoon season.

 

Entrance of Golden Temple

We came out of the monastery and went for breakfast as we were dying with hunger in a nearby restaurant named Hotel Golden Star opposite to Golden Temple. But food there was pathetic... it seemed like they forgot to put salt in everything… even tea was like hell... so we came out of there and there are shopping centers beside the restaurant. You can try to do some shopping here for traditional Tibetan items…after that got into our car at 9:50AM and started towards Dubare Elephant Camp which is around 20Km from Golden Temple.

Dubare Elephant Camp

Timings: 09:00-21:00                                                                              Entry Fee – INR 30 per person

After getting out of Bylakuppe, we took left at Mysore Madikeri Road, and then from Kushalnagar we took SH91 and from Guddehosur took left again. There are lots of sign boards on the way which will efficiently guide you and also Cauvery will accompany you all the way to Dubare. Roads were exceptionally green again due to monsoon and scenic beauty was spread everywhere and I am the big lover of roads itself so I kept on admiring them. At 10:20AM we reached at the bank of Cauvery from where we had to catch boat to reach the Elephant camp that is a kind of island itself. Boat charged INR 30 per head for to-and-fro journey from there. While in boat we enjoyed a lot as one of my friend was somewhat afraid of this much water so we kept on teasing her.

Elephant taking bath

Dubare is a forest camp dedicated to elephants. Actual purpose of Dubare was to train elephants for logging purpose. But because logging activity has been ceased in Karnataka, so now these elephants have been deployed to entertain the tourists and generate revenue. When we reached there we could see lots of elephants and some elephants were taking bath in the river and their mahouts were giving them a nice scrub. It was pleasant to see so much elephant but as they were taking people on ride in a large group so instead of riding we decided to enjoy in ourselves at the bank of the Kaveri. We took lots of pictures there as big stones and trees in Kaveri were creating a nice background. We were hopping from one stone to another and from one tree to the next.

While coming back you need to board the same kind of boat (two kinds of boats were there) that you took while coming. You can also enjoy rafting in Kaveri here but rapids are not that strong. So if you are a little afraid of real rafting, you can try your hand in rafting here which is actually known as still water rafting. We did not try for it and left for Nishagradhama which we saw on the way some 12kms back.

Nisargadhama

Timings: 9:00-17:00                                                         Entry Fee: INR 10 for adults, INR 5 for kids.

Within 20mins we were in the parking of Nisargadhama, all credit goes to the nice roads. Nisargadhama is a 64-acre island formed by the river Kaveri near Kushalnagar in Madikeri. It is very famous for its Hanging Bridge which connects the island to the mainland built over the River Cauvery. The Hanging Bridge on which we were standing was the new one and we were able to see the old bridge beside this one. It was very exciting to stand on the bridge & gaze at the flow of Cauvery as due to rainy season it was swelling with water.  There are always two sides of the coins; so again due to monsoon we were not able to do boating as it is not considered safe when water level is too high.  



Old Bridge at Nisargadhama



On this island, there are some shops selling items famous in Coorg viz. handicraft shops, honey, spices, coffee shop. There are Deer Park and Rabbit Park on this island. In Deer Park, we also saw some dears roaming. There were tree houses also... good for couples to enjoy there and clicking pictures. It is a perfect place for those who love to walk in the nature among bamboo, teak and sandalwood trees. By the time we reached to the car, small droplets of water started to pour in.

It was time to feed our belly so started towards Madikeri town and searched for a nice restaurant. Within some time, we were ordering our lunch at Neel Sagar. We ordered North Indian food and it was very delicious, forced us to lick our fingers. Meanwhile we also searched one very big 3BHK house and rented it for the day and decided to get fresh before heading towards the next point. We were told by locals that it is not safe to go by your car to Mandalpatti, moreover driver was also not ready for it so arranged a jeep to take all seven of us to Mandalpatti and Abbey Falls. You can try to go by your personal vehicle if you are very confident of your driving skills as during monsoon roads get slippery and for later half of the distance you will not find proper charcoal roads.

Mandalpatti

Timings: 06:00-18:00                                                                                                          No Entry Fee

20 kms away from Madikeri is the famous shooting point Mandalpatti. Around 3PM we were again out of our Homestay in the jeep which was going to take us to the peak. We only knew that it has some nice views to enjoy but were not sure what exactly we are going to watch there. Shortly we saw a sign board for Abbey Falls, but we took the other road to it. Those undulating roads with greenery all around were making us crazy. Don’t forget to take some snacks and water bottle with you as you will not get anything there. As we were going up we were able to see the hills covered with mist and clouds. Road was rough and very slippery but jeep driver was very skillfully driving it. Every view was “No Miss” view and we were enjoying them with our eyes wide open. At one point, there was a broad area and we asked the driver to stop the jeep. We were surprised by the panoramic scenes present there and thinking that we were completely unaware of such an untouched beauty that too so close to us. I was lost in one more thought that if it is this beautiful here, what would be there on the top of Mandalpatti which resulted in doubling our excitement, when we started again.



Expansive view from Mandalpatti

Under a very old tree covered with green algae, driver stopped the jeep and we jumped off impatiently without even waiting to stop it properly. In front of us was Pushpagiri Bird Sanctuary and we had to trek over a small hill which was just around 250-300 meters. We took permission from Forest Officers present over there and did entry in their register. When we reached to the top, instantly a thought hit in my mind that “why Coorg is a synonym to Scotland”. No explanation was needed then. Mesmerizing views over Western Ghats were self-explanatory. I am extremely sorry but I don’t have exact words to explain that. It was seriously like heaven on this earth. Far stretching views of the green mountains and cool breeze was overwhelming. It was a complete unique feeling and still unique to me. There is a view tower on the top of the Hill, wind started to get stronger and colder as we got on it. Nobody of us was ready to move from there but after taking a lot of pictures moved back at 5:15PM. But this place is definitely going to beckon me to come back here again and again. 

Abbey Falls

Timings: 09:00-18:00                                                                                                         No Entry Fee

Next in the plan was Abbey Falls for which we saw sign board on the way. We came to the diversion point and took the other road on which going 3 kms further is the famous Abbey Falls. We reached there at 5:45PM and after leaving the jeep in the parking started to descend among the green plantations. After a short while, we realized that we were walking through coffee plantations. It was so dense that we were able to hear the sound of Water but not able to see a single drop of it.

Do I need to describe this mighty fall?

Just a sight of the famous Abbey Falls, prompted us to jump into it. Due to monsoon, it was having ample amount of water… gushing down with a thrust... and having good crowd too as compared to Mandalpatti. For some time we simply stood there, staring at the fall, as eyes were not going off it. Then we looked around and saw a hanging bridge again just opposite to the fall. It was full of people, but we realized the actual reason after getting on it. Actually water of the Abbey falls was plunging with such a strong speed that droplets of it could be felt while standing on the Hanging Bridge. We also created a safe place for us and stood there. Within few minutes we were drenched completely all because of those droplets and started feeling cold. So at 6:15PM we left for the Raja Seat.

Raja Seat

Timings: 05:30 – 20:00                                                                              Entry Fee – INR 5 per person

Just after the entrance, we could see a very big and well maintained park having fountains in between. It was around 6:35PM so weather was also awesome turning somewhat misty. But we were trying to find out that why this place is known by the name “Raja’s Seat”. So kept on moving further in quest and reached to an open pavilion. Those crescent shaped big steps were having a view area with railings overlooking a vast valley to admire the nature and green valleys all around. According to legends, Kings of Kodagu used to spend their evenings here and watch the setting sun through their seat. The view of the valley covered with clouds was taking our breath away. Although sun had already set by the time we reached there, but still scenes were mesmerizing.

 

A Road in Valley as seen from Raja's Seat

If you are in Coorg, and not enjoying coffee being at such a nice view point, it means you are committing a sin. We did not wanted to be part of that, so ordered a nice coffee from a nearby vendor in the Park itself. Locals told us that the best thing here is Musical Fountain Show, displayed on all days after the sunset, but we decided to miss it and came out after taking a nice break. Just opposite to the park is Toy Train ride for kids and adults both and lots of small vendors with evening snacks to make your evening just perfect. We also tried some snacks and it was just wonderful. 

Our home for that day was just 1.5kms away. We all liked Neel Sagar so much that we decided to have dinner there only. This is how our first day at Coorg came to a nice end unwillingly… L

2nd day was also as much exciting as the first day.. check the details here
Day 2 | Coorg in Monsoon, A Hidden Treasure

Dhanushkodi – A Place where Land ends

Now known as Ghost Town, Dhanushkodi once played an important role in the history and still considered as a sacred place for Hindus because of an interesting story in the epic Ramayana. It is said that when Rama came back after giving the throne to the Vibhishana in Lanka, Vibhishana requested Rama to break the Setu – built to cross the sea so that Rama's army could reach Lanka. Rama broke the Setu with the end of his bow here, hence got the name Dhanushkodi (Dhanush means bow and Kodi means end).

Dhanushkodi is at the eastern most tip of the Pamban Island which is connected with the mainland with a 2 km long bridge known as Pamban Bridge. It is located in Tamilnadu state of India some 18 kms away from Rameshwaram, the main pilgrimage center of Hindus. In 1964, a terrible cyclone hit the area and it wrecked the complete village and swept a complete passenger train into the sea, leaving the area complete barren and uninhabited as after this disaster, town was declared unfit for living. Locals informed us to leave the place before sunset as according to them it is still scary to be there in night. Although we did not feel that but yes I can say that on our way back from Dhanushkodi to Rameshwaram, roads were so lonely giving us some creepy feel and we decided to not to stop in between until the next habitation.

With these stories in mind, very excitedly we started from main temple of Rameshwaram towards Danushkodi - to see this mystical and mythological place. On the way, there is a Snake Park that we decided to skip as already running short of time. Next was Kodanda Rama temple, which is famous, again with one more story from the Ramayana. People believe that Vibhishana, brother of Ravana, surrendered here before Lord Rama. This temple survived the 1964 cyclone which destroyed the whole town of Dhanushkodi. But to our bad luck, we found it locked and after waiting for few minutes we started towards the beach.

 

Back of Kodanda Rama Temple

We were driving on the road, which lies between the two seas. On one side you can see Indian Ocean along the road and get to see Bay of Bengal after some time. We saw some mini buses were standing at a point, as we reached there, we were asked to park our car as that was the last point upto which your personal vehicle is permitted. After that point, you need to catch those mini buses which run on the sandy beaches towards the Sangamam. The bus charged us INR 100 per person for the to-and-fro journey. But they depart only when bus gets full so we started to explore the beach with speedy and high waves. Water there was of green color – the color of sea that I was looking at first time. That color is still unique to me as until I am writing this post I could not find this color anywhere else and the feel of it can only be felt (no word can’t express) because I can still see that color captured in my eyes and feeling that I m still standing at Dhanushkodi Beach J .

The bus driver started calling us and we got into the bus which was in no time running on the sandy shores. There were no roads; only and only sand was there with water at some of the points. After a journey for half-an-hour, bus came to the halt and driver asked to each of us to come back in 45 mins. After getting down we realized that we are in middle of two seas, on the sand bed. We started to walk, but there we faced the “Sand Rain” – Wind filled with sand which was making cuts on our faces, hands and every part of the body left uncovered. We were facing that kind of wind the very first time, so were finding it difficult to move against it.

Till that day, I had only heard of the meeting point of the rivers or where the river meet the sea, but that day was different in my life as I was going to see Sangamam of two oceans – Bay of Bengal and Indian Ocean. As I was walking towards the Sangamam, I could notice the difference between two. That point is the confluence of deep and rough waters of Indian Ocean with the shallow and calm waters of Bay of Bengal. The Sangamam could easily be noticed because of this difference between the two. It was a deep serene feel to stand at that point and look at the confluence of two seas. Eventually water of Indian Ocean started to come under our feet and we decided to move backwards from that point. Indian Ocean is so violent there it’s tough to dare to put your feet in its water so we decided to be on Bay of Bengal side.

Sangam Point

There are many controversies about the existence of the Setu, but NASA satellite images have confirmed the existence of this ancient Setu connecting India with Sri Lanka and aged it be around 1,750,000 years old which corresponds to the Treta Yuga. We also tried to find out some left over signs of Rama Setu there, but our efforts went in vain. Despite this,we all were extremely happy after being there, but due to time consideration we started to move towards our bus which was far away. Saw some of the boats there indicating the presence of fishermen in that area else it was completely abolished.
 

While returning we saw the wrecked town of Dhanushkodi, railway line was there which had been covered with sand at most of the places, the ruined structure of the Church was still standing and few other demolished structures clearly telling the story of destruction caused. We explored the area and found a Hanuman temple which was having the famous floating stone - used to construct Rama Setu over the sea water to reach Lanka. We tried to sink that in water but it forced us believe that it is the one. Actually it was having very small pores through which water goes inside it and help it to float. Anyways we were happy to be the part of the history about which we had only read and heard.


Abandoned Chapel & Town

Mini bus left us at the point where our car was parked and with a little enjoyment at the Dhanushkodi beach which was still roaring with its high waves, we started our journey back to the main town of Rameshwaram.

 

Roaring Indian Ocean

Notice the Color


Floating Stone

General Information with Day Plan:

 

Date of Visiting: 26th July 2013, Friday

Distance from Bangalore : 620 kms

Entry Fee : No Entry fee is there.

Mode of Travelling : Upto Dhanushkodi beach personal vehicle is allowed, but need to take mini buses/tempos for Sangam which is around 7kms away.

Days Required : No night stay is allowed so after enjoying for 3-4hrs, come back to Rameshwaram.

Kind of Place : Its considered a sacred place for Hindus, but this place has been declared as ghost town. 
 

Some more points:

Ø       Take sufficient snacks/food with you, as there is nothing to eat except 1-2 shacks which have cold-drinks and snacks.

Ø       It is advisable to leave the place before sun set as this town has been declared ghostly.

Ø       Wear sufficient clothes to cover yourself if planning to visit in Summer months as Sandy Wind is very dangerous there.

 

 



 



Kodachadri Trek, Hidlumane Waterfalls & Nagara Fort

 

What I feel after coming to Bangalore, the simplest way to rejuvenate being here is – just select a nearby hill and start conquering the same by trekking on it. One of my friend always say that as much high she reaches on any hill, her stress level reduces to that proportion, on the top of the hill she feels so relaxed that she forgets about all the work or daily life problems or whatever is going on in the life… the heart and mind is filled with only one feel of being on the top. After coming back she starts afresh which increases her efficiency and productivity irrespective of what she does. This thing doesn’t happen not only with her but most of us feel like the same. Same was the case with Kodachadri which was not easy as compared to some of my earlier treks. It kept on teasing and I kept on guessing the next visible hill is the peak.

 

It had been so long I was not out for any trek, then suddenly one day I came to know about the Kodachadri trek organized by TAM (Treks and More), instantaneously I decided to join them as this time I didn’t need to worry about the plan, the group or anything. They were the organizers and I simply need to follow so this time I didn’t even trouble Google much to find information for me. Infact it was a wonderful start for 2014.

We jumping off the tree...

A part of Western Ghats, Kodachadri is a mountain peak which lies in Shimoga district of Karnataka having an altitude of 4400 ft. We started at 10:30PM from Bangalore and reached at the base of the hill the early morning at 5:00AM with 2 small breaks. I settled my luggage in the room of the Homestay and started to get ready for the trek. At 7 AM we all were having our breakfast provided by the owner (Mr. Bhat) of the Homestay which included idli and vada with sambhar which was very tasty. After that we discussed the plan for the day, a guide was there to accompany us as base is covered with dense forest and it is not easy to find the correct route if you are not on the jeep trail. There are three most famous routes for the trek and we selected the most scenic one with utmost difficulty level.

 

At 8AM we started for the trek, from Homestay jeep route was clearly visible and after around 20 mins walk we took right which was the start of the dense jungle. We were going among the high grown plants and crossed a stream of water... though it was not a big one but it was fun to cross it. We were clicking a number of pictures and greenery around was reminding me about the Mullayangiri trek. The trek level was very easy as we were simply walking without any feeling of getting tired. At a point some trees were fallen, blocking the route but we just climbed over them and jumped to the other side. The plants or better forest was making us feel fresh and being in the lap of nature we were extremely happy. In this part the trees were full green and have formed such a dense canopy that we were not even able to see a single ray of sunlight crossing through it.

 

Trekking among dense forest

Around 9:45AM, after crossing the dense forest we reached in the grassland which was surrounded by the hills all around. Nearby was a small cottage which we need to cross to further continue the trek. The view there was spectacular, till then sun had also started rising. After a short break we started again and this time we found some more human habitation and also the wide fields for supporting their livelihood. Crossing which we were going on a muddy pavement beside which water was flowing down and a way has been formed to walk on the side of it. That water was indicating that we were nearby some falls.

 

Gradually we reached to a point where water was coming down on a bed of rocks which had made the rock exceptionally slippery. It was very tough to cross that part as there were high chances of getting slipped down. I can still feel that thrill that I felt at that point of time while crossing it as I almost slipped once but anyhow gripped my feet against the rock. The path here turned very rocky and big boulders were spread all around making the path very steep. After around 10 mins we met to a small fall where water was flowing down the big rock initially we thought it as Hidlumane. We took a number of good snaps there… nobody was ready to miss a single click as background was too awesome. The path ahead was not easy, perhaps the most difficult part of the entire trek... very steep, very slippery and very narrow to walk on.

 

In front of our eyes was the most exciting part of the trek… Hidlumane Falls; standing there in seclusion. It was worth for the difficult trek we already did and were going to do after it. It is hidden among the hills and trees which are standing there like the soldiers protect their Kingdom and to capture a view of it you have to be perseverant. Although water was not very much at that time because it was the month of January but still the feel of it was just wonderful. A number of trees were fallen down just before the falls making the view spectacular. Good amount of water is collected in the natural pool to take a perfect bath. When I went ahead to click pictures with this mighty fall, it made me completely wet with its droplets. Then it was my chance to get drenched fully feeling its complete charm. The path after the fall was the most difficult one as steep rocks were ahead of us. It was very dangerous as we need to go on very big boulders making the ascent tough.



Hidlumane Fall

After a tiring trek for 15mins, it was time to take another short break and to wait for the ones who were still enjoying at the Waterfall. We were not able to stop ourselves and kept on discussing about the route which we just trekked and felt much relieved after that part of the trek. We had come out of the thick forest and now was the turn of the grasslands. In this part of the trek grasslands were dry so turned brown instead of green; I was busy in imagining how the view would be during monsoons. Here steepness of the mountain was about 60 degrees. We were among the bed of the hill which was making us move up and down with the sight of jeep route opposite to it. It was again time to take a break after a tiresome trek for more than 1 hr. We all were resting under a tree, 2 villagers approached us, they were selling buttermilk and kokum juice (a fruit which is very refreshing). Both of the drinks were so refreshing that suddenly we felt that we had got our energy back.

Trekking continued...

Jeeps were coming from both sides and those drivers being expert in these kind of hills, were driving skillfully leaving us to take a test on our skills :P. So we kept on moving to the side whenever any jeep was there. Jeep trail not being that adventurous as dense forest and falls, it was still providing the majestic view of the forests around. Inspection Bungalow was visible in the midst of dense forest at considerable distance. We again stopped after tour guide Kishan asked us to stop as we were supposed to get lunch here provided by the Homestay owner. It was wonderful as we were getting lunch delivered in the midst of the jungle and that too on the halfway to the hill. Anyways our photo session started again, were in no mood of skipping any moment. We were hungry and our wait got fruit after 25mins and we could see big vessels having rice, sambhar, dal and curd. It was just awesome.

 

This time we decided to move somewhat fast and reached to a temple in some time and beside that temple was a pond. No idea what was the name of the temple but this is the last point where jeep comes. After this point everybody needs to walk upto the top. This was again the challenging part of the trek. It was steep as well as every hill was putting us in hallucination that the next visible peak is the destination. When we were reaching to the Top of that, we could see another one. We also played this game enthusiastically and kept on guessing that how many peaks were still there. Then we saw the peak by identifying the temple of Adi Shankara J

 

Known as Sarvajana Peetha, this point is the highest point of Kodachadri. It is said that at this point Adi Shankara meditated. Various stories are famous among locals and it is also famous as a pilgrim point. We could see almost all the locals including females and children coming barefooted from the point jeep trail ends. It was full of gravel and other small stones making the route worst but I think this is the devotion of those pilgrims which makes this worst route walkable to them.

 

On the top of Kodachadri is... Saravajana Peetha

We took shelter beside the temple and had watermelon, cucumber to re-energize ourselves. Yes we could get these things at such a high point and hats off to the guy who was present there and helping the trekkers and other pilgrims. The panoramic view from the top of the hill was breathtaking. While enjoying the views, I was thinking that the feeling of standing here is worth of all the efforts we put for reaching this peak. The feeling which can only be felt not described. Reaching to the peak is daring and adventurous task which involves a trek for approx 10-12 kms.

 

We wanted to stop there for the sunset, as Kodachadri is famous for its sun set and sun rise both, but our guide informed us that it is not safe to trek to the base in night. If you are planning to stay on top in night, then only you must stop here. So we started to descend after a break of 1.30 hrs. This time we simply followed the jeep trail as sun was about to set and trekking on those steep hills in night is not advisable until you are an expert trekker.

 

While returning, we (I and one of my friend) also decided to explore the cave which is just before the peak on the right. Famous as Ganesha Guha, it has an idol of Lord Ganesha, and on the other side you can see the beautiful views. But I had heard that there is one more cave here and surprisingly we were able to find that hidden cave about which not many people know. We entered in this cave, it was completely dark and Bats had made their home in it, so decided to go back. But an adventurous feel started to fill my nerves and I could feel my adrenaline level went up and after coming out it was tough to believe what I just saw.

 

Me at Ganesha Guha

We stopped near to the point where we met to the jeep trail while coming up. A small peak was there; from that peak too you can enjoy a marvelous sun set as we did. We got over that, settled ourselves and started waiting for the sun to set. Sun was slowly moving into the sky and going behind the hills spreading the hues of many colors. This was the perfect scene to click pictures and we did not miss anyJ. After sunset we had a look at the surroundings and then we realized that it is very very beautiful. We could see a reservoir (probably it was Chakra Reservoir) from that point it was looking awesome. Then was the time to start downwards on the jeep trail. We were talking about different experiences of different people while walking down as till then we all had become friends with each other. It was overwhelming to walk down under the sky full of stars but with completely dark surroundings, for me it was a unique experience in its own way. The jeeps which were coming down were source of light for an instant and it was dark again when they passed but our talks were keeping the surroundings alive.

 

Notice the red and blue hues in the sky

 Ultimately at 8PM we reached to the homestay, making my first trek for 12 hours successful. We were so tired and so dirty that I was not even able to recognize my own feet. We had hot bath all in local style; water was getting hot in one vessel by burning wood below it, which helped in reducing the tiredness. It was time to have dinner but there was plan for Campfire behind the homestay. We all reached there one by one and within no time we all were enjoying the campfire over Antakshari. Till then we had forgot the fatigue which was not letting us move… just one hour back :P. After a lot of enjoyment, we had dinner and slept for the day. 

 

Day - 2 | 26th January 2014, Sunday

 

Next day morning we woke up early to catch the sun rise, as both the sun rise and sun set are spectacular in the hills. I joined the other members who had planned for it and got the information about the nearest sunrise point. We were walking in the direction told by the local in the dark having no clue about the point. But with some trouble we were able to find it and started waiting for the sun. There a very funny thing happened, as we were not sure that this is the correct point and time and it was already 6:30AM, we thought that sun had already risen and it can’t be viewed from this point as one small hill was obstructing the view. So after some time we started back and suddenly one guy saw it rising and he shouted “See, Sun is rising.” We all turned back and lost in the awestruck view, sun had started to spread its light and sky was changing color. Anyway, it was 6:45AM and we were laughing on ourselves that how unsure we were!!

 

25kms away on the way to Bangalore, 18^th century fort is located named Nagara Fort. After breakfast we left the Homestay in which we enjoyed a lot the last night. Within half an hour we were standing in front of the main gate of the fort. The fort was ruined yet catching attention of the tourists. It forced us to think that how people would have constructed it in that era when no machines as today’s world were present. Outer walls are standing firm but inner part is kind of huge grassland. We entered into the fort through a steep ramp. There were holes in the walls and also small balconies were present helping us to guess the structure of fort which would be present some hundred years ago. The highest point of this fort is the Observatory Tower which provides a spectacular view of whole Fort and surroundings. We also came through some more ruined structure in the other part of the fort, but each part was still showcasing the royalty from that era. We spent around 50-60 mins inside the fort.

 

Observatory Tower inside Nagara Fort

After getting into the bus, a round of different games started and almost all were participating enthusiastically. We didn’t even realize when we reached Shimoga and took a halt there for lunch. After lunch, resumed Dumb Charades until the next stop which was taken for tea. Time was flying and we were running for our sweet home. J

Hogenakkal Falls – God's Ultimate Creation

Monsoon was about to leave from Bangalore in the month of October in year 2013. It was playing hide and seek… coming back again when we thought it was gone. Actually I was not so concerned about it until Google introduced me to this mighty fall called Hogenakkal through its mesmerizing pictures. So I desperately started waiting for it to be over so that I could go to Hogenakkal because a waterfall looks awestruck just after the monsoon.

Hogenakkal Waterfall got its name from two Kannada words, ‘Hoge’ means smoke and ‘Kal’ means rocks hence the term “Smoky Rocks”. Rocks appear to be smoky here because of the Cauvery river which falls vigorously into the gorge which is some 20m deep. As per locals, it looks like “Mini Niagra”.  It is around 180kms from Bangalore ahead of Krishnagiri.

Hogenakkal Fall is not usual kind of waterfall where we see one or two streams coming down but it is a series of waterfalls that is spread over an area of 1km or so. Yeah, this is true that this waterfall is spread in such a vast area and you can visit all, only through a coracle ride. It is actually formed by the Cauvery River which after coming to this area starts to fall down into the gorge at various points thus forming a series. There is no way of enjoying the actual part of the fall other than the coracle (as far as I know). Stroll at the area just after the parking where people would be taking bath, you will find out so many streams that your curiosity will keep on increasing to see more.

Now let me describe the whole day in my own style. There was no pre-plan for it but suddenly one Saturday night we decided to leave for it the next morning. The early morning, my friend called me in utter confusion and asked me to change the place..  considering the scorching heat of Tamilnadu, also he had heard that it had been too dirty for a nice waterfall to enjoy. Anyhow I managed to convince him and we left our rooms at 5:30AM and within 15 mins all of us were there in the car. In no time we crossed the Electronics City area in the outskirts of Bangalore and were swifting smoothly for Attibele. After clearing inter state tax, we took U-turn and then stopped for the much awaited tea. You will be thinking that after paying tax why we took U-turn, actually we were first going to Pearl ValleyJ.

A garden near Parking of Pearl Valley

Pearl Valley is famous with the name Muthyalamaduvu among locals. It is known with the name Pearl Valley because the drops of water from waterfall after striking to the rocks (present here) give the illusion of Pearl. We followed Attibele-Anekal Road from there, after Anekal, road was very narrow and ride was bumpy. We were moving ahead to see the Pearls. We were the only group to reach there and my friends started to got crazy again as we were not able to see anything exciting. At first site we saw a room there, later we got to know that it was the tourist office which was closed. We saw a local guy and tried to ask him the direction but it was difficult to communicate as he didn’t know English and we didn’t Tamil. Anyhow with sign language, we got our way and started to descend on stairs. As we were descending further, beauty was ascending in proportion. The area was completely soaked with divine peace, might be because of presence of no other human soul. On the way we encountered many monkeys but kept on moving slowly without disturbing them. Eventually we reached to the point where water had been collected with no sign of fall.

This was the utmost point of disappointment, monsoon was not completely over but there was no water fall, no pearls it is famous for. From water marks we could guess that it was the place from where water used to flow. Then we saw the rocks and realized that these must be those ones which help the normal water to get the look of pearls. Those rocks are not the usual ones, just check in picture. We were standing there; although there was no sign of any waterfall but still the beauty present there was trying to engulf us, not allowing us to come out of the thoughts of it. The feeling was so strong that I could stand there the whole day gazing the panoramic scene. In that small natural pond some water was collected and with the rocky stones forming a way, we could feel that this was the normal passage of water, tried to follow that for some distance but we returned back. Although we were unable to see the Pearls but still something hidden was there which was holding us and not letting us to move from there.

Rocks which create Pearls 

We came up and started towards the Hogenakkal Falls. There are two routes for the fall but we followed the shorter one as it is full of mind blowing scenery and free of traffic. Then we took a halt at Denkanikottai for breakfast and most probably lunch too… as there is nothing good to eat at Hogenakkal for vegetarians. We had nice dosa, idli which is traditional breakfast of Southern States. Till then mercury had risen to a nice level and we were full of sweat. After Anchetty we entered in the dense forest area, wind was cool then and we were enjoying different varieties of tree on both sides of road. No doubt this scene was exceptionally eye-catching; our purpose of taking the shorter route was fulfilled. Let me tell you after few kms.. road condition started to get so worst, we wished to reach Hogenakkal as soon as possible. From Bilgundala we were able to catch a scene of Cauvery River which was flowing with us on the right. Humidity was compelling us to jump into river but after a halt of 15-20mins we proceeded towards the main destination.

A beautiful turn among the dense forest

Few kilometers of drive and we were in the parking of Hogenakkal. We got down, the first word was HELL as sun was on top of our head and we were drenched in our own sweat. After 10 mins of walk we could see direction arrows for Fish Market and Main Falls. We proceeded in the direction of the main fall and started to see a number of streams one by one. So many streams in such an area were making us cooler and more cooler. We decided to have Coracle ride first as it is the only way to see all the falls spread in the area of around 1 km. For Coracle ride they take max 6 people in one coracle and we were charged Rs 250 per person. Here you can give your bargaining skills a nice try.

Coracle is a kind of circular boat made by local people. It is made of bamboo and on the bottom is canvas and tar which helps it to float on water easily. This trip on the coracle was for 2 hours. This was our turn to think that what we are going to do in 2 hours in the Coracle. With all these thoughts revolving in our mind, we started and after 15 mins the coracle guy asked us to get down on one bank and commanded us in Tamil. We were wondering what we will do now & were following that guy who has by now taken Coracle on his head and was moving ahead of us with a nice speed. Then after a walk of 10 mins on rocky stones.. among the scenic view of water of Cauvery we reached to the stairs to descend leading us to the downstream of gorge. He threw the coracle in the gorge and asked us to sit in it. This was the simple starting of our wonderful journey in the fall.

Different streams of Cauvery we encountered while walking

Gorge and our coracle guy in the center

We were enjoying in the coracle in the gorge, we reached at a place where three streams were coming down into the gorge from 3 different directions, making that scene breathtaking. Here speed of water (because it was hitting the rocks and coming back) was that much that our coracle was moving at an angle of 360 degree by itself just because of force of water. The coracle guy took us very near to the stream by using his skills and we could feel water droplets on our face. Then the next scene was amazing as we were moving on the highway made of water instead of concrete. Water has made its way through the rocks and they were guarding the water from both sides. On the way in another coracle, a vendor was selling snacks on his coracle reminding me of Dal Lake in Kashmir where you can do shopping while enjoying the Shikara ride. Again the guy asked us to get down and walk. In the first look, it looked like a kind of feast for ones who love Fish. They were preparing Fish dishes in a variety of ways and people were buying them excitedly.

Two falls out of three

Highway made of water instead of concrete

He showed us the way to a bridge by pointing his finger as till now he understood that we din’t know Tamil. After crossing the bridge we could see the sight for which I was waiting so long for so many days.. infact few months. It was the view point to see the main falls. From it, we could see a distant view of Cauvery flowing in a calm pace and then suddenly falling from a height on rocks into the gorge from so many points forming a series of waterfalls and with such a thundering speed producing a illusion of smoking rocks. This is the scene that anyone can gaze for hours without even blinking the eye. We were also lost in this hypnotic scene and completely forgot about the sun which was shining brightly on top of us.

Felt water droplets here

We jumped off from the view point to catch the view from the nearest point possible and started to walk on the small rocky stones which were there all through our way. After reaching the nearest point possible we simply crashed over on the stones; gazing at the falls and appreciating the nature. With us sun also got in relaxing mood as it went behind the clouds in the sky. We were amazed at the God’s creation who has created such a variety of things and it can be considered amongst the top creation of him. We were trying to guess about its vastness, its depth, its roaring speed and so many things like this. We were able to see that smoke (smoke of water) that people talk about; looking like it was coming out of rocks. We were just sitting there on the stones and discussion about the fall was going on and on without any break until I noticed the coracle guy who was calling us back.

We headed further in the boat, after few meters, water was shallow and we jumped off into the water. Water was cool; effectively beating the sun’s effort of making it hot. The coracle guy was again waiting for us and when he realized that we were in no mood of coming back he started to ask us continuously to come back in coracle. Half-heartedly we came out and were heading in the direction of the point where this ride was supposed to end. In the Cauvery, there were so many plants some of which were floating with us and at some places water was moving round and round forming a little hurricane in water. Those 2 hours passed in a moment and ride was going to end.

We were wet when the ride ended; wanted to jump again in the water so searched for the place where speed of water was somewhat slow so that we could stand in the water instead of flowing in it ;). At one place, we need to cross a stream to go on other side; when we kept our legs in it, fishes in the water started to bite on our legs and we started to jump at our places. Ultimately we found a nice place to jump into, enjoyed the bath for more than an hour. Speed of stream was really fast because monsoon was just over. This water is said to have curative powers because this water passes through some area which is having medicinal herbs. I can’t comment anything about its curative strengths but for sure it was rejuvenating as hell. Its coolness was making us crazy but time was also passing by so we had to come out. We came out had hot tea and left Hogenakkal around 5 PM.

Main Fall

While returning back we followed the other route i.e. longer route. Even on this route, we encountered some nice scenery as sun was going to rest after a long day of work. As usual we jumped down; stopped for some time and enjoyed the sun set over a vast green area forming a valley. At one point sun rays were falling on the ground with a different angle forming a canopy of rays on a particular area so that a special lightning effect had been produced just like a dancer is highlighted on the stage. Then Bangalore was our final destinationJ.

Sun ray's special effect

General Information with Day Plan:

Date of Visiting : 6-Oct-2013 Sunday

Distance from Bangalore : approx 150 Km

Entry Fee : No entry fee.

Mode of travelling : By Car

Plan for the day : Bangalore->Pearl Valley->Anchetty->Hogenakkal Falls->Rayakottai->Bangalore.

Days required : Keep one full day to enjoy it fully.

Kind of place : Perfect place to get rid of summer heat as water remains here throughout the year. 

Some important points:

Ø      If you are interested in having massage, this is one of the best place as we could see everywhere people covered with oil and a massager nearby.

Ø      Also it’s the best place for fish lovers. If you are a vegetarian, please get your food packed for the day.

Ø      For changing wet clothes, changing rooms are there but not clean. 

Ø      This place has turned somewhat dirty but not that much that you can’t enjoy being there. So go and admire the Nature’s beauty.